Browse Category by Classic Style
Classic Style, Heirloom Sewing, New Pattern, Quick Projects

Infant Crossover Bubble- One for the boys!

 

Just in time for summer fun, here’s a version of my Infant Crossover Bubble that’s perfect for the beach.  This was made by another one of my tester, Yulia.  She used a light summery blue and white striped fabric that can keep baby cool and comfortable.  There are no sleeve seams and this provides a loose comfortable fit for babies.  It’s also easy to sew…no tiny armhole seams!  As you can see, we have a very happy model.

 

 

I love how she used a Dotted Swiss fabric and her piping is absolutely perfect.  The Dotted Swiss adds just enough texture and interest.

 

 

Here’s the back view.  No seams, again, providing total comfort.

 

Cool.

Comfortable.

Quick Easy Project.

You can see Yulia’s other lovely creations on her Instagrem @berriesandpetals.

Purchase the pattern here.

Or you can visit my Etsy Shop for the pattern along with fabrics and trims to complete your project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Classic Style, Embroidery, Heirloom Sewing

The Mountmellick Stitch- New Tutorial

When my daughter asked me to make her son’s Baptism outfit, I decided to experiment with something new.  She didn’t want smocking and chose a shirt and shorts outfit with simple tucks and embroidery.  She also wanted linen which I was thrilled to hear!

I needed a “row” stitch, something that would look like a braid between the tucks, which of course were hemstitched.  I have a tutorial for that here and here.

I was drawn to the Mountmellick stitch and after experimenting I found that I could make it look like little arrowheads that could be mirror imaged between the tucks.

I made the stitch 1/8″ wide, 4 threads apart, with size 8 Perle cotton.  It’s simple and elegant.

Here’s the outfit:

 

Click here for the tutorial and have fun experimenting!

 

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, Heirloom Sewing, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery

Variations on Big Sister Pamela Pattern

I wanted to share my granddaughter’s Christening Gown.

 

I made it using my Big Sister Pamela pattern.  Even though it is featured as a smocked yoke dress, it can be transformed into any basic yoke dress with a few tweaks.

I wanted to make an heirloom style gown without smocking.  It was inspired by a scrap of hand embroidery I had trimmed off of Carol’s First Communion Dress.  I had just enough to fit into a yoke so Big Sister Pamela fit the bill perfectly.  This was also my first project using Nelona.  What a delight it is to work with.  It’s just so gorgeous and easy to sew and press.

First, I traced off the Yoke pattern piece and the Blocking Guide for the smocking.  I overlapped the seam allowances across the front and traced off a whole bodice piece.  Now, I had a template for laying out my  heirloom laces.  I added the V shape in the center to feature more of the embroidered piece and add some visual interest.

 

The hardest part was mitering the entredeux into the V shape.  Next time, I will just draw a separate template for the shaped seam line and hand stitch the entredeux pieces together first.  I think it would be easier to manage.

Next, the sleeves were finished with lace insertion and the hemstitch on my sewing machine. Gathered lace and entredeux are used for the armband.

 

The next big decision was concerning the skirt treatment.  I knew Carol wouldn’t want a huge skirt, so I chose a 36″ width.  I also liked that the number is divisible by 3 for the Trinity.  Then I calculated the lengths I would need for the lace band and stitched the laces together.  The ruffle is double the width of the skirt with lace insertion and pintucks on each side, with lace edging along the bottom.  I added the V shape in the middle and added seam allowances for stitching to the entredeux.

 

I also wanted to embroider a cross for the skirt and coordinate it with the embroidery on the yoke.  I tried to shadow embroider the cross but it was too large and I couldn’t get it to look nice.  So, then I tried a chain stitch.  My dear friend Lori suggested silk floss and my goodness, it was lovely to work with.  Then I used some floche for the vines and I even found some of the same white silk ribbon that I used on the original dress!  Same patina to match the roses on the yoke.  Sometimes it pays to not throw things away! LOL.   A lace insertion oval and it was complete.

 

I’m pleased with how it turned out even though my heirloom sewing skills are a little rusty.  It took almost 2 months to complete, which includes all the mistakes and Plan Bs, but it was still fun.  I think I’ll submit it to Show and Share when I go to the SAGA convention next month.

 

Happy Stitching!

 

 

 

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Quick Projects

Drawn Thread Motif

 

Hello everyone!  I’ve finally finished my tutorial for the Drawn Thread Motif.  I hope you find it helpful.  You can find it here.  It was inspired by a vintage dresser scarf that I found in an antique shop.  I love finding inspiration from vintage items.  I wrote about it here.

Check it out and give it a try.

And keep checking in for my tester call.  I’m almost ready to start the testing phase for my preemie bubble pattern, which features this motif on the collar, as well as other embellishment options.  If you are interested in testing the pattern, check back here or my Facebook page or my Instagram page.  The pattern will fit a preemie up to 5 1/2 lbs.  It’s also perfect for Reborn baby dolls.

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery

New Tutorial Posted!

By | On July 19,20 | 2 Comments

Hi Everyone,

I’ve posted a new 2 part tutorial on how I did my hemstitch tucks.

How To Make Hemstitch Tucks Part 1

How to Make Hemstitch Tucks Part 2

It’s a very simple stitch but it can leave a big impact on your garment.  It adds the perfect touch for boy garments when you can’t use lace and but still want to add a special touch as most moms and grandmas want to do.

I used it here on my grandson’s Baptism bubble since Dad insists on no lace.  Dads will be dads, but I still had to stitch a little piece of my heart into the outfit.  This worked perfectly.  Both mom and dad were happy.

I’ve also used some of these techniques on a drawn thread collar for a preemie boy outfit, which will be coming shortly.

Here is a preview:
Playing With Threads

Once the threads are pulled and tucks are basted, the actual hemstitching goes very quickly.  Give it a try and let me know how you like it!

 

Classic Style, Embroidery, New Pattern, Quick Projects

Playing With Threads

By | On June 06,20 | 0 Comment

Wow, it’s been a while.  Time to catch up.

I’m currently working on a new preemie pattern for boys.  This one will be a little bubble.  No smocking, but it will have a little collar and I thought a touch of Drawn Thread Work would be a perfect little touch to add.  It’s always special when a mom or grandma can stitch a little bit of her heart into something so I started doing my research.

It started with a photo…but for some insane reason I didn’t save it! Now I only have my memory of a little square design that kind of looks like Reticella work.  Very vague and enough to haunt my thoughts until I could google as much as I could and ask my dear friend Lori, who’s done much more embroidery than I. She advised that Reticella and Hardanger might be too bulky for what I had in mind and advised me to stick with Drawn Thread.

I stumbled on Mary Corbet’s wonderful website and she had a link to the Antique Pattern Library.  What a rabbit hole that can be! But I disciplined myself and stuck to my research using the Drawn Thread book by DMC on the Antique Pattern Library website.  Here is the link:

http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/pub/PDF/DMCDrawn1.pdf

Have fun! But don’t forget to come back and read the rest of the post! Haha.  Then I went through my own library, but I only had some books on Pulled Thread and Ruskin Lace Work as well as an odd little book that illustrates all kinds of stitches for all of these open and counted thread types of embroidery.

Nothing popped out and said “Stitch Me Now”.  The line drawings were a little bland, and the old fashioned illustrations from the antique DMC really didn’t light a fire in by brain.

More searching, this time through Etsy and I was amazed to find this little gem!  And not a PDF, but the real book!  The listing said it is from the 1930s but there’s no copyright.

It’s the second part of the book at the Antique Pattern Library.  It’s a wonderful book but still no solutions popped out at me.

Then, I cleaned my sewing room!  Eureka!

I picked up a little shopping bag and my problem was solved.  Inside were two little doilies that I bought when I went to the craft show and antique show at the Schwenkfelder Museum with my dear friend Wanda.

What a wonderful day that was.  An entire antique and vintage fair that featured textiles and everything involving a needle.  They had all kinds of lovely antique sewing tools and linens that day and there in that bag was the perfect little design for my bubble.  It has the lacy open look of Reticella but is delicate enough for use on a lightweight linen or batiste.  And it’s not girly looking so Dad can relax haha.  It’s small in scale and can stitch up quickly.

 

 

I quickly cross referenced the books I was looking through and found the instructions I needed to execute the stitches.  The openwork square consists of wrapped bars and dove’s eye.  And the border is in my DMC book from Etsy!

Now to practice.  I have the itch to stitch.

 

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Smocking

New Pattern!

Big Sister Pamela has been released and can be purchased here or at my Etsy shop.  I had a few requests to release the Baby Pamela dress in bigger sizes and I hope you enjoy making it.

 

 

The pattern includes sizes Newborn up to 9-12 Months and a simple smocking plate for new smockers.  It also includes my snap front diaper cover, which has been very popular.  It makes diaper changes so much easier!

 

A bias neckband is a quick technique and the sleeves ares smocked with baby waves for comfort and elasticity.

 

 

Perfect for spring time projects and Easter outfits.  Happy stitching!

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

Out Of My Head And On The Baby

I’m a little late in posting this, certain life events came up and I just haven’t been up to posting.  I can’t believe it’s been since May when I was trying to work out a procedure for my grandson’s baptism outfit.

Well, it’s finally out of my head and on the baby!  Here he is, sitting on Grandpa’s lap.  I tried my hardest to get him to sit on the sofa alone, but he played surfboard and just wouldn’t have it.  He was only happy on Grandpa’s lap.

 

 

All of the mental gymnastics were worth it.  My daughter loved the outfit and she was very happy.  Sammy was comfortable and happy.  He didn’t even cry when the priest poured the water on his head.

Here are the details:

This is the embroidery in the center.  I made the hemstitched tucks on either side.  a tutorial will be coming to explain the steps.  I pinstitched the yoke by hand.

The fabric here is linen and the rest of the bubble is a fine shirting fabric with a herringbone pattern.

 

I made a peter pan collar with faggoting.

And here is the bubble with the cap:

It certainly is a satisfying feeling to finally get it out of my head!

 

Classic Style, Construction, New Pattern, Smocking

My First Pattern Test- Baby Pamela

By | On April 27,19 | 0 Comment

A new pattern is published.  It’s a smocked yoke dress for preemies up to 5.5 lbs.  I drafted it as a special request from someone from the smocking and heirloom sewing groups.  She doesn’t care for smocking the bishop dresses that are so often made for preemies so she asked me to design a yoke dress as an alternative.  She was a tremendous help with ideas and advice.

Many babies are coming home from the hospital at around 5 lbs and newborn sizes are too big for these little angels.  My own grandson was born at 6 lbs. and even the preemie size patterns I had were too big for him.  There’s a difference between growing room and being way too big.  I hope this pattern can provide a quick solution to this situation and provide a better fitting garment for the celebration of baby’s first day home.  There’s a little bit of smocking that can be stitched quickly and the instructions include easy construction methods.  I designed a simple bound neckline to avoid the extra bulk of a peter pan collar that might irritate little chins.  There are also 2 options for the back, a button down or a bound placket.  Sleeves can be smocked or gathered and bound.

The instructions include lots of photos and clear, detailed construction directions which makes this little dress a perfect project for someone who wants to try smocking.  There is a simple smocking design included in the pattern.  I didn’t include a stitch dictionary because they can easily be found on the internet.   One of them is linked at the bottom of this post.  I offer all the tips and techniques that I’ve developed over the years for sewing on pleated fabric and lots of construction advice.  It’s quick, with a simple design that will give elegant results.

I was lucky to have several talented stitchers to test out the pattern and help iron out the wrinkles, so to speak.  Their projects came out beautifully and are just darling.  Their encouragement is so important and I’m so grateful to have met them.  It was such an enriching experience.

This dress was made by Mary Beth Bolt @ButtonandBeeCreative on Instagram.  Her dress is just darling and so classic.

She did a great job.  Check out her Instagram page at the link above to see her other wonderful creations.  Cute little outfits and beautiful stitching.  She’s a great source for inspiration.

This yellow dress was made by Kaitlyn @kait_isabel on Instagram.

I love the cheerful yellow print she chose.  Perfect for a little girl.  She did a great job also, I just love the touch of embroidery she added.  Check out her Instagram page at the link above and also her shop at www.oldschoolstitches.com.au.  She has a wide selection of heirloom patterns, smocking plates, and other supplies.

I even had a first time smocker testing for me!  She was really able to give invaluable reactions from someone who is totally new to the art.  Here is her sample and she did an amazing job for a first timer!  She hand pleated then followed a few stitch tutorials from my friend at Pink Hollybush Designs and she was off and running.  She’s got the smocking bug now and wants to test more projects.  This warms my heart  because I have a passion for passing on this art to future generations.  I don’t want it to be lost to posterity.

I want to thank everyone that participated.  You were all great to work with and I hope to work with you in the future.

I hope the pattern brings joy to parents as they bring their tiny angels home.  The NICU can be very stressful and when baby finally graduates and is able to leave the hospital, she can say hello to the world in style.

Don’t worry though, I haven’t forgotten about the boys! A Preemie outfit for them is in the works.  Stay tuned and sign up for the newsletter for updates.

 

Bishop Construction, Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

New Feature- Tutorials!

I’m finishing up my first pattern testing and it has been an amazing experience.  I’ve gotten some valuable feedback and I had the opportunity to work with some talented testers.  Thank you all for joining!  I’ll be posting the photos very soon, after I’ve finished all the revisions to the pattern.

One of the best suggestions I received was to post tutorials on the blog here for beginners who might not be familiar with heirloom sewing techniques.  I thought it was a great idea.  Thank you Pam!  I have a Tutorials page now with a link at the top of the Home page.

My first tutorial shows how to make piping for heirloom garments.  Click here.  It’s a basic feature for smocked dresses and classic children’s clothing.   It supports the smocking on yoke dresses and inserts.  It can be used as trim on a cuff, or around a peter pan collar.  But’s it’s also a lesson that isn’t taught in most basic sewing classes.  It’s simple, doesn’t cost a lot of money and adds such an elegant touch.

In the next few weeks, I’ll be posting other tutorials on topics such as an easy way to make a continuous bound placket and binding a neckline.  More topics will be posted as I cover different techniques in future patterns.

 

I hope you enjoy them!

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