Browse Category by Silk Ribbon Embroidery
Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, Heirloom Sewing, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery

Variations on Big Sister Pamela Pattern

I wanted to share my granddaughter’s Christening Gown.

 

I made it using my Big Sister Pamela pattern.  Even though it is featured as a smocked yoke dress, it can be transformed into any basic yoke dress with a few tweaks.

I wanted to make an heirloom style gown without smocking.  It was inspired by a scrap of hand embroidery I had trimmed off of Carol’s First Communion Dress.  I had just enough to fit into a yoke so Big Sister Pamela fit the bill perfectly.  This was also my first project using Nelona.  What a delight it is to work with.  It’s just so gorgeous and easy to sew and press.

First, I traced off the Yoke pattern piece and the Blocking Guide for the smocking.  I overlapped the seam allowances across the front and traced off a whole bodice piece.  Now, I had a template for laying out my  heirloom laces.  I added the V shape in the center to feature more of the embroidered piece and add some visual interest.

 

The hardest part was mitering the entredeux into the V shape.  Next time, I will just draw a separate template for the shaped seam line and hand stitch the entredeux pieces together first.  I think it would be easier to manage.

Next, the sleeves were finished with lace insertion and the hemstitch on my sewing machine. Gathered lace and entredeux are used for the armband.

 

The next big decision was concerning the skirt treatment.  I knew Carol wouldn’t want a huge skirt, so I chose a 36″ width.  I also liked that the number is divisible by 3 for the Trinity.  Then I calculated the lengths I would need for the lace band and stitched the laces together.  The ruffle is double the width of the skirt with lace insertion and pintucks on each side, with lace edging along the bottom.  I added the V shape in the middle and added seam allowances for stitching to the entredeux.

 

I also wanted to embroider a cross for the skirt and coordinate it with the embroidery on the yoke.  I tried to shadow embroider the cross but it was too large and I couldn’t get it to look nice.  So, then I tried a chain stitch.  My dear friend Lori suggested silk floss and my goodness, it was lovely to work with.  Then I used some floche for the vines and I even found some of the same white silk ribbon that I used on the original dress!  Same patina to match the roses on the yoke.  Sometimes it pays to not throw things away! LOL.   A lace insertion oval and it was complete.

 

I’m pleased with how it turned out even though my heirloom sewing skills are a little rusty.  It took almost 2 months to complete, which includes all the mistakes and Plan Bs, but it was still fun.  I think I’ll submit it to Show and Share when I go to the SAGA convention next month.

 

Happy Stitching!

 

 

 

Bridal Heirlooms, Classic Style, Forever Classic, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smocking, Uncategorized

Smocked Bridal Purse- Construction and Attaching the Frame

By | On November 27,18 | 0 Comment

I’m back!  Wedding is done, and new grandson has been sufficiently cuddled for now. As promised, I’m going to explain the remaining steps for the Smocked Bridal purse I made.

To refresh your memory, I talk about the previous steps here and here.  I’ve been tinkering with this project for a while and I’m pleased with the outcome, however, I have some tweaking to do for the next one I make.  I used the Upstyle pattern from Esty, found here.  Their frames are very high quality and the pattern is easy to make.  However, I don’t care for the loose sides that will fold in unevenly, making the frame look off-center, as in the photo above.  That’s a tweak for another day.

In my second post about the purse, I described using a stay to stabilize the pleats and support the embroidery.  It was much easier to do the silk ribbon embroidery this way because all of the ribbons and floss were actually secured to the back of the stay instead of the pleats.  Also, the pleats didn’t shift around.  They stayed in position which made consistent stitches much easier to make.

 

Silk Ribbon Embroidered Smocking

 

I blocked the smocking to the size of the frame and then steamed the pleats.  When the smocking was dry and cool, I secured the stay to the top of the smocking.  I stitched 3/8″ from the top cable row, then I trimmed the top to 1/2″ from the cable row to the cut edge.

 

 

Next, I needed to control the fullness of the gathers along the bottom of the pattern piece.  The original pattern instructions place the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric, but there is also an option for one way designs and I used that.  Add 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom of the pattern piece and cut two.  I measured the distance from the top of the pattern piece and marked the same distance from the top of my smocked piece.  Then I stitched 3 rows of gathering stitches and distributed the gathers until I was satisfied.

 

 

The gathers were stitched to the stay along the bottom seam.

 

 

Then the stay is attached at the sides along the seam line.  I also stitched around the cutting line to control the gathers in the seam allowance.  Then I trimmed just outside the cutting line stitching.

 

 

 

I stitched the back of the purse to the front along the bottom seam.

 

 

I pressed the seam open.  Here you can see where all the embroidery threads have been secured to the stay instead of the pleats.

 

 

Here is the fusible fleece being attached to the wrong side of the purse.  I only fused the fleece to the back of the purse and to the back of the smocking.  I DID NOT fuse the bottom gathers or the area of the silk ribbon embroidery.  I didn’t want to crush the embroidery through the fusing process and I didn’t want to crease the gathers.  I did fuse along the sides where the fabric is flat.

 

 

Here is the purse all assembled.  The lining is interfaced and there is also a Peltex inner structure.  I forgot to take pictures of the frame being attached, but the instructions included in the pattern are very good.  I was skeptical about a glued frame but it seemed to be very solid.  I was pleasantly shocked.

 

 

I think the smocking adapted to this pattern very well.  I have to work out a better design for the sides so I think I’ll dig out my mother in law’s vintage bags and do some research.

 

 

I also forgot to take a final picture in good light.  The lighting in the church wasn’t very good, but I think it’s a pretty picture anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bridal Heirlooms, Construction, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smocking

Smocked Bridal Purse- the Next Steps

By | On July 29,18 | 0 Comment

So, I’ve completed the smocking and the backsmocking on the bridal purse.

 

Backsmocking on the bridal purse

 

Now, the next step is to attach it to a stay.  It is very similar to underlining a dress.  A stay is a sturdy piece of fabric that serves to support the smocked piece so that it keeps its blocked shape.  It will be easier to place the silk ribbon embroidery once the pleats are stabilized.   It will also control the fullness of the pleated fabric at the bottom of the purse.  I can arrange the gathers and stay stitch them in place before constructing the rest of the purse.

To attach a stay, merely cut a piece of fabric larger than the pattern piece.  On the stay fabric, mark the center of the frame and mark both ends.

 

 

Lay the smocked piece over the stay, matching up the center the center of the smocked design with the center marking from the frame. Place the end of the smocking rows within the end markings you made from the frame.  You want to make sure all of the smocked area is within the width  of the frame. Fan out the edges a little and pin it all around the edges.

 

 

Baste around the smocked area to hold the two pieces together.  Now the embroidery area has been stabilized and is ready for stitching.

 

 

Here is the reverse side of the basted layers.

 

Reverse side of basted smocking

 

Now to stitch on beads and silk ribbon flowers.  When the embroidery is finished, I will stitch some gathering rows along the bottom and arrange the gathers.

 

 

Construction, Quick Projects, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smock Alongs, Smocking

One of the Perks of SAGA Membership: Smock Alongs!

One of the nicest perks of my membership in the Smocking Arts Guild is the SAGA Smock Along page on Facebook.  Various projects are posted that feature different skills.  We are given a supply list and we’re allowed to choose our own fabrics and color combinations.  Each week is a different lesson and we post our progress to the group as we go along. The variety of fabrics and colors used is so inspiring.  If someone is struggling with a step, we all help and offer advice.  It is a great way to build your skill set and it can encourage you to think outside your sewing box to explore new ideas.

Even though the projects are called Smock Alongs, they can feature any embroidery technique.  The last one I participated in was an adorable Silk Ribbon Embroidery Tissue Case.  It’s designed by Wanda DeWitt, who does beautiful silk ribbon work.  She is a great teacher and her instructions make it so easy to get the best results.  This little tissue case was such a quick project to do and yet it looks like it took hours.  It’s the perfect gift to use scraps, or when you need a last minute present.

 

 

Some of the Smock Alongs are for members only, and some are open to the general public.  Membership is pro-rated after July 1st until the end of the year, so now would be a good time to join.  Check us out.  We would love to get to know you and share our love of smocking and embroidery.