Browse Tag by Construction
New Pattern

A New Pattern! The Infant Crossover Bubble

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Infant Crossover Bubble is now available in my Etsy Shop and at my website. This is a larger version of my Preemie Crossover Bubble, sized for older babies and it comes in sizes Newborn to 12 Months. It features Kimono Sleeves, so there are no tiny armholes to stitch around. It also opens flat for easy diaper changes. There is an asymmetrical collar that can be embellished in a number of ways. Make it fancy with some heirloom lace and hand embroidery, or make it more casual with some piping. You can also leave the collar off and add some machine embroidery. It is fully lined and needs minimal hand stitching. You can really let your imagination go and be as creative as you can be.
I’ve wanted to offer a larger version of the preemie bubble for a while now, and it’s finally available.
You can find it here at the websited under Patterns.  You can also find it, along with fabric and trims, in my Etsy Shop.
The photo above features a more casual version, with some hand embroidery.  I copied the motif on the fabric using my camera and Illustrator to make an embroidery transfer.  The little duck is finished in a simple chain stitch.  A tutorial for that will be available in the near future.
Below, I used machine embroidery on Swiss Flannel.  The design is from Mommy’s Apron Strings and it’s available from her Etsy shop here.  She features vintage style designs and they match this vintage style bubble perfectly.  Her designs stitch out beautifully.
The bubble below has some heirloom lace and Swiss Embroideries.  I used the new 100% Organice Cotton Linen Batiste with some Lavender Pique.  The fabrics are available in my Etsy shop.  The Swiss Embroidery trim and lace was from my stash, but I carry other laces that would work as well.
The fabric can be purchased here and here.
I’ve used snaps on all my version, however, the pattern testers made some wonderful versions with buttons!  I’ll be featuring their creations so stay tuned.  Subscribe for updates and sign up for my newsletter to get all the latest news.
Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, Heirloom Sewing, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery

Variations on Big Sister Pamela Pattern

I wanted to share my granddaughter’s Christening Gown.

 

I made it using my Big Sister Pamela pattern.  Even though it is featured as a smocked yoke dress, it can be transformed into any basic yoke dress with a few tweaks.

I wanted to make an heirloom style gown without smocking.  It was inspired by a scrap of hand embroidery I had trimmed off of Carol’s First Communion Dress.  I had just enough to fit into a yoke so Big Sister Pamela fit the bill perfectly.  This was also my first project using Nelona.  What a delight it is to work with.  It’s just so gorgeous and easy to sew and press.

First, I traced off the Yoke pattern piece and the Blocking Guide for the smocking.  I overlapped the seam allowances across the front and traced off a whole bodice piece.  Now, I had a template for laying out my  heirloom laces.  I added the V shape in the center to feature more of the embroidered piece and add some visual interest.

 

The hardest part was mitering the entredeux into the V shape.  Next time, I will just draw a separate template for the shaped seam line and hand stitch the entredeux pieces together first.  I think it would be easier to manage.

Next, the sleeves were finished with lace insertion and the hemstitch on my sewing machine. Gathered lace and entredeux are used for the armband.

 

The next big decision was concerning the skirt treatment.  I knew Carol wouldn’t want a huge skirt, so I chose a 36″ width.  I also liked that the number is divisible by 3 for the Trinity.  Then I calculated the lengths I would need for the lace band and stitched the laces together.  The ruffle is double the width of the skirt with lace insertion and pintucks on each side, with lace edging along the bottom.  I added the V shape in the middle and added seam allowances for stitching to the entredeux.

 

I also wanted to embroider a cross for the skirt and coordinate it with the embroidery on the yoke.  I tried to shadow embroider the cross but it was too large and I couldn’t get it to look nice.  So, then I tried a chain stitch.  My dear friend Lori suggested silk floss and my goodness, it was lovely to work with.  Then I used some floche for the vines and I even found some of the same white silk ribbon that I used on the original dress!  Same patina to match the roses on the yoke.  Sometimes it pays to not throw things away! LOL.   A lace insertion oval and it was complete.

 

I’m pleased with how it turned out even though my heirloom sewing skills are a little rusty.  It took almost 2 months to complete, which includes all the mistakes and Plan Bs, but it was still fun.  I think I’ll submit it to Show and Share when I go to the SAGA convention next month.

 

Happy Stitching!

 

 

 

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Quick Projects

Drawn Thread Motif

 

Hello everyone!  I’ve finally finished my tutorial for the Drawn Thread Motif.  I hope you find it helpful.  You can find it here.  It was inspired by a vintage dresser scarf that I found in an antique shop.  I love finding inspiration from vintage items.  I wrote about it here.

Check it out and give it a try.

And keep checking in for my tester call.  I’m almost ready to start the testing phase for my preemie bubble pattern, which features this motif on the collar, as well as other embellishment options.  If you are interested in testing the pattern, check back here or my Facebook page or my Instagram page.  The pattern will fit a preemie up to 5 1/2 lbs.  It’s also perfect for Reborn baby dolls.

Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery

New Tutorial Posted!

By | On July 19,20 | 2 Comments

Hi Everyone,

I’ve posted a new 2 part tutorial on how I did my hemstitch tucks.

How To Make Hemstitch Tucks Part 1

How to Make Hemstitch Tucks Part 2

It’s a very simple stitch but it can leave a big impact on your garment.  It adds the perfect touch for boy garments when you can’t use lace and but still want to add a special touch as most moms and grandmas want to do.

I used it here on my grandson’s Baptism bubble since Dad insists on no lace.  Dads will be dads, but I still had to stitch a little piece of my heart into the outfit.  This worked perfectly.  Both mom and dad were happy.

I’ve also used some of these techniques on a drawn thread collar for a preemie boy outfit, which will be coming shortly.

Here is a preview:
Playing With Threads

Once the threads are pulled and tucks are basted, the actual hemstitching goes very quickly.  Give it a try and let me know how you like it!

 

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Smocking

New Pattern!

Big Sister Pamela has been released and can be purchased here or at my Etsy shop.  I had a few requests to release the Baby Pamela dress in bigger sizes and I hope you enjoy making it.

 

 

The pattern includes sizes Newborn up to 9-12 Months and a simple smocking plate for new smockers.  It also includes my snap front diaper cover, which has been very popular.  It makes diaper changes so much easier!

 

A bias neckband is a quick technique and the sleeves ares smocked with baby waves for comfort and elasticity.

 

 

Perfect for spring time projects and Easter outfits.  Happy stitching!

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

Out Of My Head And On The Baby

I’m a little late in posting this, certain life events came up and I just haven’t been up to posting.  I can’t believe it’s been since May when I was trying to work out a procedure for my grandson’s baptism outfit.

Well, it’s finally out of my head and on the baby!  Here he is, sitting on Grandpa’s lap.  I tried my hardest to get him to sit on the sofa alone, but he played surfboard and just wouldn’t have it.  He was only happy on Grandpa’s lap.

 

 

All of the mental gymnastics were worth it.  My daughter loved the outfit and she was very happy.  Sammy was comfortable and happy.  He didn’t even cry when the priest poured the water on his head.

Here are the details:

This is the embroidery in the center.  I made the hemstitched tucks on either side.  a tutorial will be coming to explain the steps.  I pinstitched the yoke by hand.

The fabric here is linen and the rest of the bubble is a fine shirting fabric with a herringbone pattern.

 

I made a peter pan collar with faggoting.

And here is the bubble with the cap:

It certainly is a satisfying feeling to finally get it out of my head!

 

Classic Style, Construction, New Pattern, Smocking

My First Pattern Test- Baby Pamela

By | On April 27,19 | 0 Comment

A new pattern is published.  It’s a smocked yoke dress for preemies up to 5.5 lbs.  I drafted it as a special request from someone from the smocking and heirloom sewing groups.  She doesn’t care for smocking the bishop dresses that are so often made for preemies so she asked me to design a yoke dress as an alternative.  She was a tremendous help with ideas and advice.

Many babies are coming home from the hospital at around 5 lbs and newborn sizes are too big for these little angels.  My own grandson was born at 6 lbs. and even the preemie size patterns I had were too big for him.  There’s a difference between growing room and being way too big.  I hope this pattern can provide a quick solution to this situation and provide a better fitting garment for the celebration of baby’s first day home.  There’s a little bit of smocking that can be stitched quickly and the instructions include easy construction methods.  I designed a simple bound neckline to avoid the extra bulk of a peter pan collar that might irritate little chins.  There are also 2 options for the back, a button down or a bound placket.  Sleeves can be smocked or gathered and bound.

The instructions include lots of photos and clear, detailed construction directions which makes this little dress a perfect project for someone who wants to try smocking.  There is a simple smocking design included in the pattern.  I didn’t include a stitch dictionary because they can easily be found on the internet.   One of them is linked at the bottom of this post.  I offer all the tips and techniques that I’ve developed over the years for sewing on pleated fabric and lots of construction advice.  It’s quick, with a simple design that will give elegant results.

I was lucky to have several talented stitchers to test out the pattern and help iron out the wrinkles, so to speak.  Their projects came out beautifully and are just darling.  Their encouragement is so important and I’m so grateful to have met them.  It was such an enriching experience.

This dress was made by Mary Beth Bolt @ButtonandBeeCreative on Instagram.  Her dress is just darling and so classic.

She did a great job.  Check out her Instagram page at the link above to see her other wonderful creations.  Cute little outfits and beautiful stitching.  She’s a great source for inspiration.

This yellow dress was made by Kaitlyn @kait_isabel on Instagram.

I love the cheerful yellow print she chose.  Perfect for a little girl.  She did a great job also, I just love the touch of embroidery she added.  Check out her Instagram page at the link above and also her shop at www.oldschoolstitches.com.au.  She has a wide selection of heirloom patterns, smocking plates, and other supplies.

I even had a first time smocker testing for me!  She was really able to give invaluable reactions from someone who is totally new to the art.  Here is her sample and she did an amazing job for a first timer!  She hand pleated then followed a few stitch tutorials from my friend at Pink Hollybush Designs and she was off and running.  She’s got the smocking bug now and wants to test more projects.  This warms my heart  because I have a passion for passing on this art to future generations.  I don’t want it to be lost to posterity.

I want to thank everyone that participated.  You were all great to work with and I hope to work with you in the future.

I hope the pattern brings joy to parents as they bring their tiny angels home.  The NICU can be very stressful and when baby finally graduates and is able to leave the hospital, she can say hello to the world in style.

Don’t worry though, I haven’t forgotten about the boys! A Preemie outfit for them is in the works.  Stay tuned and sign up for the newsletter for updates.

 

Bishop Construction, Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

New Feature- Tutorials!

I’m finishing up my first pattern testing and it has been an amazing experience.  I’ve gotten some valuable feedback and I had the opportunity to work with some talented testers.  Thank you all for joining!  I’ll be posting the photos very soon, after I’ve finished all the revisions to the pattern.

One of the best suggestions I received was to post tutorials on the blog here for beginners who might not be familiar with heirloom sewing techniques.  I thought it was a great idea.  Thank you Pam!  I have a Tutorials page now with a link at the top of the Home page.

My first tutorial shows how to make piping for heirloom garments.  Click here.  It’s a basic feature for smocked dresses and classic children’s clothing.   It supports the smocking on yoke dresses and inserts.  It can be used as trim on a cuff, or around a peter pan collar.  But’s it’s also a lesson that isn’t taught in most basic sewing classes.  It’s simple, doesn’t cost a lot of money and adds such an elegant touch.

In the next few weeks, I’ll be posting other tutorials on topics such as an easy way to make a continuous bound placket and binding a neckline.  More topics will be posted as I cover different techniques in future patterns.

 

I hope you enjoy them!

Bridal Heirlooms, Classic Style, Forever Classic, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smocking, Uncategorized

Smocked Bridal Purse- Construction and Attaching the Frame

By | On November 27,18 | 0 Comment

I’m back!  Wedding is done, and new grandson has been sufficiently cuddled for now. As promised, I’m going to explain the remaining steps for the Smocked Bridal purse I made.

To refresh your memory, I talk about the previous steps here and here.  I’ve been tinkering with this project for a while and I’m pleased with the outcome, however, I have some tweaking to do for the next one I make.  I used the Upstyle pattern from Esty, found here.  Their frames are very high quality and the pattern is easy to make.  However, I don’t care for the loose sides that will fold in unevenly, making the frame look off-center, as in the photo above.  That’s a tweak for another day.

In my second post about the purse, I described using a stay to stabilize the pleats and support the embroidery.  It was much easier to do the silk ribbon embroidery this way because all of the ribbons and floss were actually secured to the back of the stay instead of the pleats.  Also, the pleats didn’t shift around.  They stayed in position which made consistent stitches much easier to make.

 

Silk Ribbon Embroidered Smocking

 

I blocked the smocking to the size of the frame and then steamed the pleats.  When the smocking was dry and cool, I secured the stay to the top of the smocking.  I stitched 3/8″ from the top cable row, then I trimmed the top to 1/2″ from the cable row to the cut edge.

 

 

Next, I needed to control the fullness of the gathers along the bottom of the pattern piece.  The original pattern instructions place the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric, but there is also an option for one way designs and I used that.  Add 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom of the pattern piece and cut two.  I measured the distance from the top of the pattern piece and marked the same distance from the top of my smocked piece.  Then I stitched 3 rows of gathering stitches and distributed the gathers until I was satisfied.

 

 

The gathers were stitched to the stay along the bottom seam.

 

 

Then the stay is attached at the sides along the seam line.  I also stitched around the cutting line to control the gathers in the seam allowance.  Then I trimmed just outside the cutting line stitching.

 

 

 

I stitched the back of the purse to the front along the bottom seam.

 

 

I pressed the seam open.  Here you can see where all the embroidery threads have been secured to the stay instead of the pleats.

 

 

Here is the fusible fleece being attached to the wrong side of the purse.  I only fused the fleece to the back of the purse and to the back of the smocking.  I DID NOT fuse the bottom gathers or the area of the silk ribbon embroidery.  I didn’t want to crush the embroidery through the fusing process and I didn’t want to crease the gathers.  I did fuse along the sides where the fabric is flat.

 

 

Here is the purse all assembled.  The lining is interfaced and there is also a Peltex inner structure.  I forgot to take pictures of the frame being attached, but the instructions included in the pattern are very good.  I was skeptical about a glued frame but it seemed to be very solid.  I was pleasantly shocked.

 

 

I think the smocking adapted to this pattern very well.  I have to work out a better design for the sides so I think I’ll dig out my mother in law’s vintage bags and do some research.

 

 

I also forgot to take a final picture in good light.  The lighting in the church wasn’t very good, but I think it’s a pretty picture anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bridal Heirlooms, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques, Uncategorized

Bridal Party Shirts!

I’m back from a little hiatus and I just wanted to share the shirts that Esther Conrad Grant embroidered for my daughter’s wedding!  She is the owner of Tiger Swallow Tales Children’s Boutique and she also has a stunning dress in the latest issue of Classic Sewing Magazine that you must read about.

Here is the link to her shop on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tigerswallowtales/

She also has a fantastic blog that you should check out: http://www.tigerswallowtales.com/

My daughter, Rose, found a picture on Pinterest using monogrammed flannel shirts for the bridal party and she had her heart set on doing a similar picture for her wedding.  The wedding is in November and she wanted something a little cozier than little robes for the bridal party.  The picture she wants to use shows the bridal party lined up with their backs to the camera, wearing monogrammed flannel shirts.  Esther was wonderful and she went above and beyond to make Rose’s dream come true.  Esther found the perfect font, in the perfect size and created these beautiful shirts that the bridesmaids can wear when they do their hair and makeup.  She has such an amazing talent and Rose will be ecstatic when she sees them! ❤️❤️❤️  

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

Monogrammed Bridal Party Shirts from Tiger Swallow Tales

 

The shirts are stunning thanks to Esther’s meticulous attention to detail.  I just can’t thank her enough!  I also want to thank her for kindly allowing me to post her pictures from her Facebook page.

I’ve been away a little too long and I will be posting more soon.  I have updates from convention and a SAGA meet up at Kent State to share, along with my entry from the Design Show.  I was working on that, then my grandson decided to come 3 weeks early and totally threw off my sewing schedule! I thought I would have a whole month after convention to make him a coming home outfit, but he clearly had different plans!  Now things have settled down and I can get back to my Bridal purse and my Baby Bishop pattern not to mention my next pleating lesson.

It’s been hectic!

Here is the original post with the shirts on Esther’s Facebook page:

Warm November Wedding by Tiger Swallow Tales

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