Browse Tag by Pleating
Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Smocking

New Pattern!

Big Sister Pamela has been released and can be purchased here or at my Etsy shop.  I had a few requests to release the Baby Pamela dress in bigger sizes and I hope you enjoy making it.

 

 

The pattern includes sizes Newborn up to 9-12 Months and a simple smocking plate for new smockers.  It also includes my snap front diaper cover, which has been very popular.  It makes diaper changes so much easier!

 

A bias neckband is a quick technique and the sleeves ares smocked with baby waves for comfort and elasticity.

 

 

Perfect for spring time projects and Easter outfits.  Happy stitching!

Bishop Construction, New Pattern, Pleating, Smocking

New Pattern Test- Baby Bishop Diaper Set

 

 

 

 

My new pattern is all ready for testing.  It’s a little smocked bishop diaper set with a front closing.  There are options for a self folded over placket or a contrasting fabric placket.  The diaper cover has front snaps for easy changing.

An easy smocking plate is included with the pattern that requires basic knowledge of cable and trellis stitches.

The size range is newborn to 12 months.

Recommended fabrics are lightweight cottons and blends such as batiste, lawn, voile or linen.  Broadcloth can also be used as well as cotton interlock.  The diaper cover can be made from heavier fabric such as broadcloth, or chambray, or it can match the bishop top.

The testing will run from September 1-30, 2019 and I will notify all testers by September 1, 2019.

Here’s the link to apply:

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScYzA_RMSm2CW547RpUsiLPfVaDzp96-QC99jbeW8bYEo50iQ/viewform?usp=pp_url

Or go to my Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/littleheirloomangels if the above link doesn’t work.

Please join us!

Classic Style, Construction, New Pattern, Smocking

My First Pattern Test- Baby Pamela

By | On April 27,19 | 0 Comment

A new pattern is published.  It’s a smocked yoke dress for preemies up to 5.5 lbs.  I drafted it as a special request from someone from the smocking and heirloom sewing groups.  She doesn’t care for smocking the bishop dresses that are so often made for preemies so she asked me to design a yoke dress as an alternative.  She was a tremendous help with ideas and advice.

Many babies are coming home from the hospital at around 5 lbs and newborn sizes are too big for these little angels.  My own grandson was born at 6 lbs. and even the preemie size patterns I had were too big for him.  There’s a difference between growing room and being way too big.  I hope this pattern can provide a quick solution to this situation and provide a better fitting garment for the celebration of baby’s first day home.  There’s a little bit of smocking that can be stitched quickly and the instructions include easy construction methods.  I designed a simple bound neckline to avoid the extra bulk of a peter pan collar that might irritate little chins.  There are also 2 options for the back, a button down or a bound placket.  Sleeves can be smocked or gathered and bound.

The instructions include lots of photos and clear, detailed construction directions which makes this little dress a perfect project for someone who wants to try smocking.  There is a simple smocking design included in the pattern.  I didn’t include a stitch dictionary because they can easily be found on the internet.   One of them is linked at the bottom of this post.  I offer all the tips and techniques that I’ve developed over the years for sewing on pleated fabric and lots of construction advice.  It’s quick, with a simple design that will give elegant results.

I was lucky to have several talented stitchers to test out the pattern and help iron out the wrinkles, so to speak.  Their projects came out beautifully and are just darling.  Their encouragement is so important and I’m so grateful to have met them.  It was such an enriching experience.

This dress was made by Mary Beth Bolt @ButtonandBeeCreative on Instagram.  Her dress is just darling and so classic.

She did a great job.  Check out her Instagram page at the link above to see her other wonderful creations.  Cute little outfits and beautiful stitching.  She’s a great source for inspiration.

This yellow dress was made by Kaitlyn @kait_isabel on Instagram.

I love the cheerful yellow print she chose.  Perfect for a little girl.  She did a great job also, I just love the touch of embroidery she added.  Check out her Instagram page at the link above and also her shop at www.oldschoolstitches.com.au.  She has a wide selection of heirloom patterns, smocking plates, and other supplies.

I even had a first time smocker testing for me!  She was really able to give invaluable reactions from someone who is totally new to the art.  Here is her sample and she did an amazing job for a first timer!  She hand pleated then followed a few stitch tutorials from my friend at Pink Hollybush Designs and she was off and running.  She’s got the smocking bug now and wants to test more projects.  This warms my heart  because I have a passion for passing on this art to future generations.  I don’t want it to be lost to posterity.

I want to thank everyone that participated.  You were all great to work with and I hope to work with you in the future.

I hope the pattern brings joy to parents as they bring their tiny angels home.  The NICU can be very stressful and when baby finally graduates and is able to leave the hospital, she can say hello to the world in style.

Don’t worry though, I haven’t forgotten about the boys! A Preemie outfit for them is in the works.  Stay tuned and sign up for the newsletter for updates.

 

Bridal Heirlooms, Classic Style, Forever Classic, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smocking, Uncategorized

Smocked Bridal Purse- Construction and Attaching the Frame

By | On November 27,18 | 0 Comment

I’m back!  Wedding is done, and new grandson has been sufficiently cuddled for now. As promised, I’m going to explain the remaining steps for the Smocked Bridal purse I made.

To refresh your memory, I talk about the previous steps here and here.  I’ve been tinkering with this project for a while and I’m pleased with the outcome, however, I have some tweaking to do for the next one I make.  I used the Upstyle pattern from Esty, found here.  Their frames are very high quality and the pattern is easy to make.  However, I don’t care for the loose sides that will fold in unevenly, making the frame look off-center, as in the photo above.  That’s a tweak for another day.

In my second post about the purse, I described using a stay to stabilize the pleats and support the embroidery.  It was much easier to do the silk ribbon embroidery this way because all of the ribbons and floss were actually secured to the back of the stay instead of the pleats.  Also, the pleats didn’t shift around.  They stayed in position which made consistent stitches much easier to make.

 

Silk Ribbon Embroidered Smocking

 

I blocked the smocking to the size of the frame and then steamed the pleats.  When the smocking was dry and cool, I secured the stay to the top of the smocking.  I stitched 3/8″ from the top cable row, then I trimmed the top to 1/2″ from the cable row to the cut edge.

 

 

Next, I needed to control the fullness of the gathers along the bottom of the pattern piece.  The original pattern instructions place the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric, but there is also an option for one way designs and I used that.  Add 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom of the pattern piece and cut two.  I measured the distance from the top of the pattern piece and marked the same distance from the top of my smocked piece.  Then I stitched 3 rows of gathering stitches and distributed the gathers until I was satisfied.

 

 

The gathers were stitched to the stay along the bottom seam.

 

 

Then the stay is attached at the sides along the seam line.  I also stitched around the cutting line to control the gathers in the seam allowance.  Then I trimmed just outside the cutting line stitching.

 

 

 

I stitched the back of the purse to the front along the bottom seam.

 

 

I pressed the seam open.  Here you can see where all the embroidery threads have been secured to the stay instead of the pleats.

 

 

Here is the fusible fleece being attached to the wrong side of the purse.  I only fused the fleece to the back of the purse and to the back of the smocking.  I DID NOT fuse the bottom gathers or the area of the silk ribbon embroidery.  I didn’t want to crush the embroidery through the fusing process and I didn’t want to crease the gathers.  I did fuse along the sides where the fabric is flat.

 

 

Here is the purse all assembled.  The lining is interfaced and there is also a Peltex inner structure.  I forgot to take pictures of the frame being attached, but the instructions included in the pattern are very good.  I was skeptical about a glued frame but it seemed to be very solid.  I was pleasantly shocked.

 

 

I think the smocking adapted to this pattern very well.  I have to work out a better design for the sides so I think I’ll dig out my mother in law’s vintage bags and do some research.

 

 

I also forgot to take a final picture in good light.  The lighting in the church wasn’t very good, but I think it’s a pretty picture anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bishop Construction, Construction, Pleating, SAGA, Smocking, Uncategorized

More Pleating Part 3

The next challenge in my pleating adventures is to tackle a method of bishop pleating that requires the pieces to be pleated before stitching the underarm seams.  I like to call it the Release and Rethread method.  It takes longer and requires a lot of concentration but it is a no fail method to totally hide seams.  Your bishop dress will appear totally seamless and smooth.  No ugly bumps that are created when the seams are caught up in the pleat during the typical pleating method.

The first step is to carefully lay your pieces in order.  Pleaters vary in the way the needles pierce the fabric in the rollers.  Some pleat with the longer stitches on top and other pleat with the longer stitches on bottom.  “Long is wrong” is the cardinal rule for pleating so it’s important that you understand how your pleater works.  The dress pieces should be laid out according to how your pleater pleats: right side up or wrong side up.

Pleat the first piece and clear it from the needles and unthread them.  With the right side of the fabric facing you, remove the threads and pull them out of the seam allowances, usually 1/2″ on each side of the pattern piece.  Make sure the pleating threads are coming out of the right side of the fabric.  You want to make sure your seam allowances will be falling to the wrong side of the garment.

Next, start pleating the sleeve, making sure the you have the correct sleeve piece.  For a back opening bishop, you will need the back of the sleeve to go through first so that it matches the back armhole of the first pleated piece.  The opposite would apply for a front opening bishop.  In that case, you have pleated one front already and need the front sleeve seam to go through the pleater first to match up with the front of the dress.  When the pleats start to build up on the needles, CAREFULLY pull off the seam allowance and flip it either up or down.  If you are pleating right side up, flip the seam allowance down.  If you are pleating wrong side up, flip it UP.  Be careful to have all your seam allowances on the wrong side of the dress.

 

Clearing the seam allowance from the pleater needles

 

Now that the seam allowance is free, carefully rethread the pleater with the same threads that are coming out of the first pleated piece.

 

Rethreading the needles for bumpless bishops

 

Make sure the pieces are all facing the same way and the pleating threads don’t get crossed as you rethread.  Continue pleating the sleeve and pull it completely off the needles just like you did for the first piece.  Clear the threads from the seam allowance, making sure the seam allowance will fall to the wrong side and continue the steps until the whole bishop has been pleated.

  1. Pleat
  2. Remove threads and clear seam allowance
  3. Pleat
  4. Pull seam allowance off needles and rethread
  5. Go to step 1 and repeat

When you are finished you should have no crossed threads, all the seam allowances on the wrong side and all the pieces in the proper order.

 

Bishop pleating without stitching the seams

 

Now it’s time to sew.  Basting is a crucial first step to sewing up the seam and making sure the pleating threads stay aligned.  Fold the seam so that the right sides are together and hand baste.  What I did to insure perfect alignment is to use the same needle holes of the pleating threads. I didn’t get a picture of just the basting but you can see it in the next steps.  Come up through the same holes in one row, go down through the same holes in the next row.  Then you machine stitch 1/16 of and inch from that basting line to form your valley.

 

Creating a valley for the bumpless bishop

 

 

 

I think you can see the basting line best in this picture.  Right where the pleating threads end, you can see a basting stitch between the two rows in white thread.

There are several options to finish the seams.  You can serge them, but if you are making an heirloom style garment you probably want to use on of the other methods.

Here I’ve done a Faux French seam by turning under the raw edges and stitching along the fold.

 

Faux French Seam

 

Here I’ve done a simple overcast edge.  The stitches are very tiny and hard to see but I think you can get the general idea.

 

Overcast Stitch on Pleated Seam

 

I’ve never worked with this method before but now that I’ve tried it, I plan to use it more often.  It’s definitely less stressful than pleating French seams and holding your breath as they go through the rollers.  You just have to concentrate and remember all the steps in order.  And even if you forget, you only have to go back and repleat one piece, not the whole dress! I call that a win right there.

My next lesson is double pleating.  As my daughter’s got older I had to figure out that technique all by myself.  This was almost 30 years ago and limited resources were available!  I  muddled through and got the dresses made but now maybe I can learn a few new tricks to make it easier!  Stay tuned.

Bishop Construction, Construction, Pleating, Smocking

More Pleating Homework- Part 2

By | On August 14,18 | 0 Comment

The next chapter in my adventures with the pleating course concentrated on pleating seams for bishop style dresses.  This has become a concern lately because so many of us have pleaters that are no longer manufactured and therefore, the original needles are no longer available.  There are generic needles on the market but they bend and break at the slightest turn of the crank.  Plus they are very expensive!  My solution is try to bend the pleating rules (better than the needles!) a bit and think of a new plan.  In the previous post on this topic, read here, I described how to get a VERY tiny french seam.  Now to talk about getting that little seam through those rollers.

First, I rolled the fabric on the dowel, keeping each seam parallel to the dowel.

 

 

Next, I made sure the fabric was started through the rollers on grain.  My method is to turn the crank until there is a tiny opening between the teeth of the rollers.  Then I hold the fabric edge at the top and bottom of the pleating area and slide it into the rollers, keeping the  inserted edge taut.  I wiggle it in until I see that the grain is parallel to the rollers.  Then, with my left hand I spread my fingers and hold the fabric against the bottom roller to make sure it doesn’t slip out of place as I turn the crank.  If your opening is small enough, you should only have to turn it a little bit before the teeth grab the fabric and it is secure.  Make sure everything is on grain and start pleating.

Pleat slowly and stay on grain.  You might have to make small adjustments on each side of the fabric as it goes through the rollers and pull the pleats off the needles often.  Just turn one crank at a time, tug and pull as necessary to keep the grain parallel.   As the seam comes off the dowel and approaches the rollers it must be parallel or you will hear that dreaded crunch!

 

 

Push the seam into a groove on the top roller just before it goes through the pleater with a screwdriver.

 

 

If you work slowly, have patience, and stay on grain, the seams should come out of the pleater free from the pleater threads.  Your bishop will be bump free from the right side and the smocking will be continuous and GORGEOUS!

 

Mini French Seam

 

In Part 3 I will talk about pleating before seaming – what I like to call the release and re-thread method.  It is suitable for heavier fabrics and it guarantees no needle breaks!  It takes more time but in the end you will have a beautiful no bump bishop to show off all your beautiful smocking!

 

Bishop Construction, Construction, SAGA, Smocking, Uncategorized

More Pleating Homework

Mini French Seam for Pleating
By | On August 04,18 | 2 Comments

My next assignment for the pleating class from SAGA was focused on pleating over seams.  I had to pleat two samples using two different techniques.  One was pleating over tiny French seams. The second involved pleating the pieces in a continuous manner without stitching seams first.  These two methods are used to pleat bishop style dresses.

I had trouble with the French seams which is a direct result of the pleater needles.  I have seen several complaints about the pleater needles being sold on the market today and I have to agree with them.  I never broke this many needles when I was pleating for my daughters 25 years ago.  That being said, I decided to think outside the box in order to save my needles.  This meant that I had to disregard the conventional pleating wisdom of using a tiny 1/8″ French seam.  I went smaller if you can believe that.

I had to get creative in order to do this and I decided my goal would be to create a French seam closer to 1/16″.  Such a tiny seam is basically like stitching over piping when you consider the bulk of the enclosed seam allowance and stitching so close to the edge.  The bulk would slip out of the bottom of the presser foot while stitching and this would create precise stitching.  It would be impossible to get an accurate seam. Also, this would only apply to lightweight fabrics such as batiste or lawn.  Anything heavier would just not work for this technique.  I realized I should treat this tiny seam just like piping and I searched through my presser feet to find one with a tiny groove that would hold the enclosed seam allowance in place as it traveled under the presser foot.  The regular piping foot had a channel that was way too big.  The closest I could find was my manual buttonhole foot and a pintuck foot.

After stitching the first seam, I trimmed VERY closely to the stitching; less than a 1/16″.  Remember: we want to reduce bulk as much as possible to make this seam fit into the tiny groove of the pleater gear.  This line of stitching doesn’t take any stress in wearing, it sits at the top of the seam allowance when the garment is finished.  It’s only purpose is to keep the raw edges of the fabric turned under, so trimming that closely will not cause any problems.  It is the second row of stitching that takes the stress because it is directly in the seam line of the garment.

To stitch the second part of this seam, I experimented with the two presser feet and the pintuck foot was the winner.  It has the tiny groove to hold the little bump of the enclosed seam allowance and the needle position can be easily adjusted for a 1/16″ final seam allowance.

 

Mini French Seam for Pleating

It’s a little wider than 1/16″ but it’s pretty darn close. and it went through the pleater with no broken needles.  I was able to pop the seams so that when the fabric came off the needles, the seam was standing upright.

 

Mini French Seam

 

Next time I’ll post about the second technique for pleating a bishop before the seams are stitched.  That was Assignment #2 from this lesson.

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, SAGA, Smocking

An Updated Smocked Bonnet

Recently my good friend, Lisa Hawkes, owner of Pink Hollybush Designs, asked me to test a new bonnet pattern for her.  I had such a good time completing this project.  It was quick, easy to put together, and absolutely adorable!  It’s the perfect project if you want to learn to smock.  She includes a detailed stitch glossary with the pattern that will help any beginning smocker.

 

 

Pink Hollybush Designs Smocked Bonnet

 

 

She starts with the traditional smocked band framing the face and adds an updated touch at the back by enclosing it with a lined inset.  This provides a more tailored look in the back while offering an updated, more modern look for babies.  This way grandmas can still smock away, and mommas who don’t like the old-fashioned bonnets can be happy.  The best of both worlds.

 

 

Pink Hollybush Designs Smocked Bonnet

 

 

Traditional smocked bonnets are usually made of batiste, which could be a little too lightweight for colder northern climates.  Lisa has addressed those issues with this new pattern.  It can be made from the cutest cotton, or poly cotton prints.  It can be made with a more casual look, perfect with a sunsuit.  It can also be made with a heavier fabric for those cooler days here up north.  It’s such a versatile design, you can use it with a wide variety of fabrics and prints.  This is definitely going into my Grandmother’s Hope Chest.

 

 

Pleating

A Pleating Experiment

My youngest daughter is getting married in November and my mind is filled with designs for a bridal purse.  I’ve really fallen in love with the channel frame purses.  They seem like they are easy and fast.  Plus, it seems like the straight channel would be perfect for a smocked design.  There are no corners or curves.  It isn’t a sew-on frame but I’m hoping I can glue it and crimp it and it will be just as secure.

I wanted to make the purse out of some duchess satin with smocking, beads and silk ribbon embroidery.  Duchess satin is a beautiful polyester satin that is very easy to work with, so I decided to try running it through my pleater.

 

 

The polyester in the fabric reacts differently when passing through the pleater so you have to go VERY, VERY SLOWLY.  As I turned the crank, I heard crunching sounds and my heart stopped, thinking that I broke a needle right at the start.  Thankfully, that crunching wasn’t the needle.  It was the polyester fiber.  So I continued very slowly, easing the fabric onto the needles gently.  I managed to pleat all the way across the fabric with no issues.  No split pleats.  No bubbles. No skipped pleats.  And I ended up relatively on grain!

The pleats looked a little wonky but I just pushed them very closely together and pinned the fabric edges to my shaping board. I tugged at the top and bottom to straighten out those little bubbles.

 

 

Then I spritzed and steamed.  Then I spritzed and steamed again.  I pushed the pleats to the other side of the pleating threads really close together and repeated the process.  After the pleats were cooled off, I had lovely peaks and valleys that will smock up very nicely.

 

 

I’d say that’s a success.  Now the real test comes when I try to do it again!

 

Pleating, SAGA, Smocking

ANOTHER HOMEWORK ASSIGNMENT

Another lesson arrived in the mail for my SAGA correspondence course on pleating.  This one has assignments for plaids, stripes and gingham! Oh my!

Well, the first fabric I tried was a lavender and white stripe, the stripes being about 1/8” wide.  I thought that would be ok because the depth of the gears is about 1/8” so I might get a solid result.  WRONG!  It was a nightmare to pleat on grain and I felt like I was going cross-eyed.  Plus the light lavender color didn’t really help.  Not enough contrast against the white.  I got a pretty result, it looks like a kind of water-color effect, but not grain-perfect for SAGA standards.

 

 

So, back to the internet I went to pick out another striped fabric.  This time I chose a stripe ¼” wide with red and white stripes.  Nice contrast and so much easier to manipulate through the pleater.

 

 

After you insert the fabric perfectly straight, the secret is to position each stripe before you turn the crank.  Turn the pleater around so you can watch the back and put your magnifiers on too. That’s one accessory I didn’t think of at first, but I found it makes all the difference in order to see the threads in the fabric.

Just before the little teeth on the gears clamp down and pull it through, stop and give a tug or a little push to make sure the stripe is parallel to the gears.  Then just turn the handle a little but, just until the next set of teeth are ready to grab the fabric.  Tug, adjust, re-position the gathers that are sticking out of the end pieces.

If you notice one side feeding in faster, grab your dowel at that end and provide a little resistance.  If the ends are slagging through, then grab the little fabric handles and help the end through the gears by moving it along as you turn the crank.  It’s a little harder to grab the fabric sticking out just below the handle so you have to kind of reach over and cross your arms.

It’s slow, but I look at it like a challenge.  And it was so rewarding to pull the piece out to find the pleating threads coming out of the fabric within the 1/16” margin that SAGA allows!

 

 

Here’s the gingham sample.  For some reason, this fabric cooperated much more than the stripe.  Maybe because it is a poly blend, or a little softer.  But I’m pleased with this result too.  I used the same method.  Alternating adjustments, one crank at a time.

 

 

Last assignment is to pleat a plaid.  I was worried that this tartan might be too small, but I’m please with the result once again.

 

 

The plaid is on grain and straight going into the gears.  If the fabric droops a little or seems to be dragging at the end of the pleater then just lift up the fabric a little.  Grab it right where it is going into the gears, outside of the handles.  Pull slightly to the side to create tension and lift it until the grain is positioned parallel to the gears.  Alternate sides.  If one side of the fabric seems to be going in at a faster rate then add resistance by pulling on the dowel a little to create some resistance.

 

 

Here is a close up of the fabric coming off the needles.  On grain.  You can also see on the bottom edge how it went into the pleater straight.  This is what it looks like when the threads are tied off.

 

 

So, I’m amazed at the difference in my pleating skills so far.  To sum up, allow yourself plenty of time.  Pleat from behind the pleater.  Basically place the fabric in each groove before the teeth of the gear clamp down.  And most importantly, walk away!  Take frequent breaks and rest the eyes.  Take a breath, then come back to pleat a few more inches.  It is worth the extra effort.

Next Posts