Browse Tag by Sewing
Classic Style, Heirloom Sewing, New Pattern, Quick Projects

Infant Crossover Bubble- One for the boys!

 

Just in time for summer fun, here’s a version of my Infant Crossover Bubble that’s perfect for the beach.  This was made by another one of my tester, Yulia.  She used a light summery blue and white striped fabric that can keep baby cool and comfortable.  There are no sleeve seams and this provides a loose comfortable fit for babies.  It’s also easy to sew…no tiny armhole seams!  As you can see, we have a very happy model.

 

 

I love how she used a Dotted Swiss fabric and her piping is absolutely perfect.  The Dotted Swiss adds just enough texture and interest.

 

 

Here’s the back view.  No seams, again, providing total comfort.

 

Cool.

Comfortable.

Quick Easy Project.

You can see Yulia’s other lovely creations on her Instagrem @berriesandpetals.

Purchase the pattern here.

Or you can visit my Etsy Shop for the pattern along with fabrics and trims to complete your project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Pattern

A New Pattern! The Infant Crossover Bubble

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Infant Crossover Bubble is now available in my Etsy Shop and at my website. This is a larger version of my Preemie Crossover Bubble, sized for older babies and it comes in sizes Newborn to 12 Months. It features Kimono Sleeves, so there are no tiny armholes to stitch around. It also opens flat for easy diaper changes. There is an asymmetrical collar that can be embellished in a number of ways. Make it fancy with some heirloom lace and hand embroidery, or make it more casual with some piping. You can also leave the collar off and add some machine embroidery. It is fully lined and needs minimal hand stitching. You can really let your imagination go and be as creative as you can be.
I’ve wanted to offer a larger version of the preemie bubble for a while now, and it’s finally available.
You can find it here at the websited under Patterns.  You can also find it, along with fabric and trims, in my Etsy Shop.
The photo above features a more casual version, with some hand embroidery.  I copied the motif on the fabric using my camera and Illustrator to make an embroidery transfer.  The little duck is finished in a simple chain stitch.  A tutorial for that will be available in the near future.
Below, I used machine embroidery on Swiss Flannel.  The design is from Mommy’s Apron Strings and it’s available from her Etsy shop here.  She features vintage style designs and they match this vintage style bubble perfectly.  Her designs stitch out beautifully.
The bubble below has some heirloom lace and Swiss Embroideries.  I used the new 100% Organice Cotton Linen Batiste with some Lavender Pique.  The fabrics are available in my Etsy shop.  The Swiss Embroidery trim and lace was from my stash, but I carry other laces that would work as well.
The fabric can be purchased here and here.
I’ve used snaps on all my version, however, the pattern testers made some wonderful versions with buttons!  I’ll be featuring their creations so stay tuned.  Subscribe for updates and sign up for my newsletter to get all the latest news.
Classic Style, Construction, Embroidery, Forever Classic, Heirloom Sewing, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery

Variations on Big Sister Pamela Pattern

I wanted to share my granddaughter’s Christening Gown.

 

I made it using my Big Sister Pamela pattern.  Even though it is featured as a smocked yoke dress, it can be transformed into any basic yoke dress with a few tweaks.

I wanted to make an heirloom style gown without smocking.  It was inspired by a scrap of hand embroidery I had trimmed off of Carol’s First Communion Dress.  I had just enough to fit into a yoke so Big Sister Pamela fit the bill perfectly.  This was also my first project using Nelona.  What a delight it is to work with.  It’s just so gorgeous and easy to sew and press.

First, I traced off the Yoke pattern piece and the Blocking Guide for the smocking.  I overlapped the seam allowances across the front and traced off a whole bodice piece.  Now, I had a template for laying out my  heirloom laces.  I added the V shape in the center to feature more of the embroidered piece and add some visual interest.

 

The hardest part was mitering the entredeux into the V shape.  Next time, I will just draw a separate template for the shaped seam line and hand stitch the entredeux pieces together first.  I think it would be easier to manage.

Next, the sleeves were finished with lace insertion and the hemstitch on my sewing machine. Gathered lace and entredeux are used for the armband.

 

The next big decision was concerning the skirt treatment.  I knew Carol wouldn’t want a huge skirt, so I chose a 36″ width.  I also liked that the number is divisible by 3 for the Trinity.  Then I calculated the lengths I would need for the lace band and stitched the laces together.  The ruffle is double the width of the skirt with lace insertion and pintucks on each side, with lace edging along the bottom.  I added the V shape in the middle and added seam allowances for stitching to the entredeux.

 

I also wanted to embroider a cross for the skirt and coordinate it with the embroidery on the yoke.  I tried to shadow embroider the cross but it was too large and I couldn’t get it to look nice.  So, then I tried a chain stitch.  My dear friend Lori suggested silk floss and my goodness, it was lovely to work with.  Then I used some floche for the vines and I even found some of the same white silk ribbon that I used on the original dress!  Same patina to match the roses on the yoke.  Sometimes it pays to not throw things away! LOL.   A lace insertion oval and it was complete.

 

I’m pleased with how it turned out even though my heirloom sewing skills are a little rusty.  It took almost 2 months to complete, which includes all the mistakes and Plan Bs, but it was still fun.  I think I’ll submit it to Show and Share when I go to the SAGA convention next month.

 

Happy Stitching!

 

 

 

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Smocking

New Pattern!

Big Sister Pamela has been released and can be purchased here or at my Etsy shop.  I had a few requests to release the Baby Pamela dress in bigger sizes and I hope you enjoy making it.

 

 

The pattern includes sizes Newborn up to 9-12 Months and a simple smocking plate for new smockers.  It also includes my snap front diaper cover, which has been very popular.  It makes diaper changes so much easier!

 

A bias neckband is a quick technique and the sleeves ares smocked with baby waves for comfort and elasticity.

 

 

Perfect for spring time projects and Easter outfits.  Happy stitching!

Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

Out Of My Head And On The Baby

I’m a little late in posting this, certain life events came up and I just haven’t been up to posting.  I can’t believe it’s been since May when I was trying to work out a procedure for my grandson’s baptism outfit.

Well, it’s finally out of my head and on the baby!  Here he is, sitting on Grandpa’s lap.  I tried my hardest to get him to sit on the sofa alone, but he played surfboard and just wouldn’t have it.  He was only happy on Grandpa’s lap.

 

 

All of the mental gymnastics were worth it.  My daughter loved the outfit and she was very happy.  Sammy was comfortable and happy.  He didn’t even cry when the priest poured the water on his head.

Here are the details:

This is the embroidery in the center.  I made the hemstitched tucks on either side.  a tutorial will be coming to explain the steps.  I pinstitched the yoke by hand.

The fabric here is linen and the rest of the bubble is a fine shirting fabric with a herringbone pattern.

 

I made a peter pan collar with faggoting.

And here is the bubble with the cap:

It certainly is a satisfying feeling to finally get it out of my head!

 

Bishop Construction, Classic Style, Construction, Forever Classic, Sewing Techniques

New Feature- Tutorials!

I’m finishing up my first pattern testing and it has been an amazing experience.  I’ve gotten some valuable feedback and I had the opportunity to work with some talented testers.  Thank you all for joining!  I’ll be posting the photos very soon, after I’ve finished all the revisions to the pattern.

One of the best suggestions I received was to post tutorials on the blog here for beginners who might not be familiar with heirloom sewing techniques.  I thought it was a great idea.  Thank you Pam!  I have a Tutorials page now with a link at the top of the Home page.

My first tutorial shows how to make piping for heirloom garments.  Click here.  It’s a basic feature for smocked dresses and classic children’s clothing.   It supports the smocking on yoke dresses and inserts.  It can be used as trim on a cuff, or around a peter pan collar.  But’s it’s also a lesson that isn’t taught in most basic sewing classes.  It’s simple, doesn’t cost a lot of money and adds such an elegant touch.

In the next few weeks, I’ll be posting other tutorials on topics such as an easy way to make a continuous bound placket and binding a neckline.  More topics will be posted as I cover different techniques in future patterns.

 

I hope you enjoy them!

Bridal Heirlooms, Classic Style, Forever Classic, Pleating, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smocking, Uncategorized

Smocked Bridal Purse- Construction and Attaching the Frame

I’m back!  Wedding is done, and new grandson has been sufficiently cuddled for now. As promised, I’m going to explain the remaining steps for the Smocked Bridal purse I made.

To refresh your memory, I talk about the previous steps here and here.  I’ve been tinkering with this project for a while and I’m pleased with the outcome, however, I have some tweaking to do for the next one I make.  I used the Upstyle pattern from Esty, found here.  Their frames are very high quality and the pattern is easy to make.  However, I don’t care for the loose sides that will fold in unevenly, making the frame look off-center, as in the photo above.  That’s a tweak for another day.

In my second post about the purse, I described using a stay to stabilize the pleats and support the embroidery.  It was much easier to do the silk ribbon embroidery this way because all of the ribbons and floss were actually secured to the back of the stay instead of the pleats.  Also, the pleats didn’t shift around.  They stayed in position which made consistent stitches much easier to make.

 

Silk Ribbon Embroidered Smocking

 

I blocked the smocking to the size of the frame and then steamed the pleats.  When the smocking was dry and cool, I secured the stay to the top of the smocking.  I stitched 3/8″ from the top cable row, then I trimmed the top to 1/2″ from the cable row to the cut edge.

 

 

Next, I needed to control the fullness of the gathers along the bottom of the pattern piece.  The original pattern instructions place the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric, but there is also an option for one way designs and I used that.  Add 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom of the pattern piece and cut two.  I measured the distance from the top of the pattern piece and marked the same distance from the top of my smocked piece.  Then I stitched 3 rows of gathering stitches and distributed the gathers until I was satisfied.

 

 

The gathers were stitched to the stay along the bottom seam.

 

 

Then the stay is attached at the sides along the seam line.  I also stitched around the cutting line to control the gathers in the seam allowance.  Then I trimmed just outside the cutting line stitching.

 

 

 

I stitched the back of the purse to the front along the bottom seam.

 

 

I pressed the seam open.  Here you can see where all the embroidery threads have been secured to the stay instead of the pleats.

 

 

Here is the fusible fleece being attached to the wrong side of the purse.  I only fused the fleece to the back of the purse and to the back of the smocking.  I DID NOT fuse the bottom gathers or the area of the silk ribbon embroidery.  I didn’t want to crush the embroidery through the fusing process and I didn’t want to crease the gathers.  I did fuse along the sides where the fabric is flat.

 

 

Here is the purse all assembled.  The lining is interfaced and there is also a Peltex inner structure.  I forgot to take pictures of the frame being attached, but the instructions included in the pattern are very good.  I was skeptical about a glued frame but it seemed to be very solid.  I was pleasantly shocked.

 

 

I think the smocking adapted to this pattern very well.  I have to work out a better design for the sides so I think I’ll dig out my mother in law’s vintage bags and do some research.

 

 

I also forgot to take a final picture in good light.  The lighting in the church wasn’t very good, but I think it’s a pretty picture anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

18 inch doll, 18 inch doll clothes, Classic Style, Construction, Doll Clothes, Forever Classic, New Pattern, Quick Projects, SAGA, Sewing Techniques

The Scalloped Belt Dress

My first pattern is finally released today.  It is the Scalloped Belt Dress, designed for the 18 inch dolls.  It has classic styling suitable for the 40s, 50s, or 60s time periods from the American girls.  It has short puffed sleeves, a peter pan collar and an attached belt with scalloped details.  Piping is optional and should be omitted for beginner sewists for best results.  It fastens in the back with hook and loop tape and the bodice is fully lined, which encloses the armhole seams for added strength.  Here are a few variations for inspiration:

 

 

 

Please give it a try and let me know your thoughts and suggestions! I would love to hear from you and if you have any questions please don’t hesitate to contact me.  I can be reached by email at smockermom@littleheirloomangels.com and smockermom319@gmail.com.  You can also send a message through my Facebook page, or through the Craftsy or Etsy platforms.  I am here to help if there’s something you are struggling with.  I really have a passion for sewing and I want to encourage the next generation of sewists by sharing my knowledge.

Construction, Quick Projects, SAGA, Sewing Techniques, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Smock Alongs, Smocking

One of the Perks of SAGA Membership: Smock Alongs!

One of the nicest perks of my membership in the Smocking Arts Guild is the SAGA Smock Along page on Facebook.  Various projects are posted that feature different skills.  We are given a supply list and we’re allowed to choose our own fabrics and color combinations.  Each week is a different lesson and we post our progress to the group as we go along. The variety of fabrics and colors used is so inspiring.  If someone is struggling with a step, we all help and offer advice.  It is a great way to build your skill set and it can encourage you to think outside your sewing box to explore new ideas.

Even though the projects are called Smock Alongs, they can feature any embroidery technique.  The last one I participated in was an adorable Silk Ribbon Embroidery Tissue Case.  It’s designed by Wanda DeWitt, who does beautiful silk ribbon work.  She is a great teacher and her instructions make it so easy to get the best results.  This little tissue case was such a quick project to do and yet it looks like it took hours.  It’s the perfect gift to use scraps, or when you need a last minute present.

 

 

Some of the Smock Alongs are for members only, and some are open to the general public.  Membership is pro-rated after July 1st until the end of the year, so now would be a good time to join.  Check us out.  We would love to get to know you and share our love of smocking and embroidery.

Construction, Doll Clothes, New Pattern, Sewing Techniques

Finishing Touches

I’ve been working on the final touches of my first pattern and it’s really cute.  It’s a dress for the 18″ dolls and it will be available for purchase through Etsy, Craftsy, and my website here.   I also have a Facebook page where I will post any updates.  Please visit and like the page to be notified of the pattern launch.  Here’s the link:

https://www.facebook.com/littleheirloomangels/

 

I designed the first version of this dress for my SAGA chapter’s fundraiser, Doll’s Day Out.  Every year the Mercer Museum in Doylestown, PA has a fundraiser for kids and their favorite dolls.  There is a tea party and various other activities.  My Smocking Arts Guild chapter, Keystone Smockers, buys a doll and we all contribute items to build a complete wardrobe for it.  We raffle off the complete set to raise money for our chapter activities.

 

 

The Scalloped Belt Dress features short sleeves and an attached scalloped belt.  The bodice is fully lined and the armhole seams are completely enclosed for strength.  That is the area that takes the most abuse when children are forcing those little doll arms through the sleeve!  It’s a quick project and can also be used for beginners if you skip the piping.

Here is a peek at another version in progress.  This one is just one last test to make sure everything is accurate before I finalize the file.

 

The launch should be announced in a week or two.  My next pattern scheduled for release will be a front button bishop top and diaper cover for preemies through 6 months.  It is the perfect Take Me Home outfit for the new arrival in anyone’s family.