This is a tutorial for a Bias Bound Neckline that wraps around the neckline and adds a polished finish on the right side of the garment.  It can be  found on bishop dresses, yoke dresses, or boys’ bubbles.  A bias binding can also be used on a sleeve finish instead of smocking or elastic.

Bias bindings can also be stitched on and turned to the wrong side of the neck to be totally hidden.  But this tutorial will focus on the visible binding.

 

STEP 1

I prefer the French bias method.  It eliminates folding under a raw edge and possible ripples in the neckline.

Cut a bias strip that is 1 1/2″ wide.  Measure the pattern pieces along the neck seamline seam and add 1″ to calculate the length.  Press it in half lengthwise and then press the bias into a curved shape with the folded edge on the outside of the curve.

NOTE: If you are binding a neckline on a bishop style garment, you must allow for turn of the cloth.  In this case you are binding pleated fabric, not flat fabric.  Looking at the top edge of a pleated bishop, the pleated fabric measures about 1/8″ in thickness so a wider bias strip will be needed to wrap around that extra width.  There will be 2 layers of bias after it is folded over, so add another 1/4″ to the width for a total of 1 3/4″ wide.

STEP 2

Stay stitch the neckline.

Stitch around the neckline along the seam line to prevent stretching and distortion. Use the seam allowance in the pattern as a guide for where to place the stitching.  If the pattern uses a 5/8″ seam allowance, stitch 5/8″ away from the raw edge.  If the pattern uses a 1/4″ seam allowance, stitch 1/4″ inch from the raw edge.

STEP 3

Trim away the seam allowance.

Cut the seam allowance off along the stay stitching line, being careful to leave the stay stitching intact on the garment.

This is important because the seam line is the actual finished neck measurement on a pattern.  This bias method will be wrapping the bias around the FINISHED neckline edge so the seam allowance is not needed.

STEP 4

Attach the bias band.

Leave 1/4″ of the bias extending past the back yoke and stitch the bias around the neckline using a 1/4″ seam.

Leave 1/4″ of the bias extending from the other end and trim off any extra.

Lift up the presser foot at intervals and smooth out the fabric if it bunches up.  Also, smooth out the yoke fabric underneath to make sure it is smooth and there are no folds.

 

STEP 5

Stitch down the bias

Fold in the 1/4″ extensions at each end of the neckline.

Wrap the bias around and hold the ends in with a pin.  The bias strip can be pressed into place if desired.  Just drape the neck opening over a pressing ham and press the bias down.

Stitch closed with a small slip stitch by hand.

All finished!  There should be no ripples or bulk.  The bias should be perfectly flat and follow the shape of the neckline.