Piping is a very easy technique to learn and it’s simplicity can add so much to an heirloom garment. It can match the garment fabric or it can be made with a contrast fabric. Learning how to make your own opens up the possibilities for design options. You can add some gingham or plaid on the bias, a contrasting fabric, or a pretty Liberty of London print.
It adds strength to a seam.
It helps smooth out a peter pan collar edge.
It adds stability to the smocked skirt on a square yoke dress.
It can be inserted into a seam just because it looks pretty!
Step 1
You will need a piece of your chosen fabric that is long enough on the bias to cut your strips to the desired length. You will also need cording to fill the piping. Each of these is discussed in the following steps.
Step 2
Calculate how wide to cut the bias strips. Wrap some fabric around the cord and pin it tightly.
Mark the spot on both sides.
Remove the pin and measure the distance between the markings.
Add 2 seam allowances to this measurement and that is the width of your bias strips.
Cut the strips on the bias grain of your fabric piece to the length needed.
Step 3
Choose the cording. I like to use Aunt Lydia’s crochet cotton (shown in the first picture) in the smaller sizes for heirloom garments. A ball of it will last practically forever. It’s a personal preference. Perle cotton would also work, size 3 or 5 depending on the size of the garment. Heirloom shops also sell baby cord for piping baby garments.
Step 4
Choose your presser foot.
You have to experiment with the different feet for your particular machine. A regular piping foot might be too big and not hold the cord tight enough in the channel. Lay the cord in the channel of various feet to check.
For my Viking machine, the buttonhole foot does the trick. Sometimes the pintuck foot works well too. I can adjust the needle position to stitch right up against the cording.
A zipper foot will also work. Adjust the needle position so that it aligns with the edge of the foot.
Step 5
Wrap the bias strip around the cording and stitch close to the cord but do not stitch on it.
Keep the cord snugly against the fold as the bias goes under the presser foot.
You can see here how snugly the foot holds the cord.
Here is the finished product.
Alternately:
You can also use wider bias strips and then just cut down the seam allowance. Sometimes this is easier because you can use wider bias strips and they are easier to manage under the presser foot.
A clear ruler with a grid helps. Line up the stitching line when measuring the seam allowance, not the cording, as shown below. This piece will be trimmed to a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Use a rotary cutter to trim off the excess.
That’s it! Heirloom quality that is simple, elegant, and not costly.
