Draw the threads to keep the fabric on grain.

1. 1. Pull a thread along the crosswise grain at the top of the piece, where it won’t show after the garment is finished.  This is to anchor the fabric to the pattern.
   2. Pull threads along the lengthwise grain for the tucks in the following order.

• • • Pull 2 or more threads along the marking for the stitching line of the tuck.  The number of threads will determine the size of the hole for the hemstitching.  It is personal preference depending on the effect you want to create.
    • Pull 1 or 2 threads along the lines marking the width of the tuck times 2.  For instance, with a 1/4″ tuck, the second pulled thread will be 1/2″ away from the threads pulled to mark the stitching line

The photo below shows the horizontal drawn thread described in Step 1.

The vertical lines mark the 3 tucks I am making.  I pulled out 2 threads for the stitching line on the left side.  Then I pulled 1 thread for the width of the tuck as described in Step 2.

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This will help create a tuck that is uniform in size and keep the tuck on grain.

3. Baste the tucks, using a running stitch, along the drawn threads with a lightweight thread, 80 wt.  This basting will disappear into the hemstitching and doesn’t have to be removed.  Pull the two drawn thread lines together by pulling gently on the basting thread to create the folded tuck.

 

 

 

In the photos above and below, you can see the basting stitches.  Since the thread is very lightweight and the spaces created from the drawn threads are used to make the basting stitches, the basting thread will be buried by the hemstitching.  There will be no need to remove it.

 

Now you are ready to do your hemstitching.  Instructions are in a separate tutorial.